Games Hardware

Got an old capture card working

UPDATE: After some tinkering due to the card not getting detected the day after, our computer died probably due to a short circuit or something. The computer is dead.

A couple of years ago I bought two of a capture card called Datapath E1s. The E1s is considered one of the better capture cards for retro games since it’s possible to optimise a lot to get a really good capture.

I mostly bought them because they supports the 5x mode on the OSSC (Open Source Scan Converter), an “upscaler” I use to play retro games on digital displays.

I bought the capture cards from a seller on Ebay. The cards had a PCI-e bracket that didn’t fit my normal PC since they had been used in an professional environment. I needed a normal PCI-e for the cards to be able to use them.

I knew there were people who had 3D-printed replacement brackets. But I didn’t know anyone with a 3D printer so I didn’t know what to do. I bought some random brackets off of ebay for cheap to see if they would work. They did not. The DVI port wasn’t correctly aligned so the card didn’t fit into the PCI-e slot.

Now, a couple of years later I contacted a finnish speedrunner who I knew had printed PCI-e brackets for Datapath cards used at FinnRuns. So I asked if he could print a few for me, which he agreed to do. Just a few days ago they showed up, and they work flawlessly, definitely worth the cost.

I got three brackets and are right now using one of the two cards I own. I am now able to capture crisp retro game footage! I just need to get a compact portable setup since I can’t have consoles and cable up permanently, the space does not allow for it.

This is how the footage looks. I think it looks great as long as you don’t inspect it too closely. Good enough for me. It’ll also be a lot easier for me to both play and capture if the OSSC is before the signal splitting in the chain. So this is very good news for me.

Games Hardware

Hori Joy-Con

I just got a Hori Joy-Con as a replacement for my drifting original blue Joy-Con. The first thing I noticed is that it is super light-weight, which is understandable since it does not have a battery.

It look pretty good, being a officially licensed product I’m not surprised. The plastic is kind of transparent. The Zelda print is cool. It is weird to not see the neon-blue colour on the left side, so that throws me off.

A nice-looking Joy-Con

The stick feels fine, the D-pad though, is very spongy. Which is not a good thing, it does not feel exact at all. Also the capture-button and the minus buttons are rubber and not hard plastic like the original which is also a down-grade. It is however a cheaper replacement for handheld play, which is why I got it.

The “inner” side of the joy-con does not have the L and R buttons, which is a no-brainer since the joy-con does not work in wireless mode, only attached to the switch.

No buttons on the inner side of the Joy-Con

One aspect I DON’T like, is the release button for the joy-con itself. It’s not as shallow as the original. This annoys me since the button actually gnawing on my finger when I play.

The release button sticks out. Which makes no sense to me.

All-in-all I’m pretty happy with it, but I have to get used to the notch sticking out into my finger. I am very happy to have a joy-con that doesn’t drift. It is no super cheap, but cheaper to buy a original, and since this is officially licensed I feel it’s fine. Being a fan of Hori controllers in general I was happy to learn they made the cheaper joy-cons.